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Wait, hold up, is that a Sovtek Mig50 back there?
If they made a Homestar Runner plate, you KNOW there has to be a Strong Bad one!! 😂👍🏼
As someone who actually remakes and sells 3D printed plastic parts for old cars (albeit in low quantities), I would make one note on the use of PETG. In my experience I have found that under stress it will eventually deform slightly with elevated temperatures (even here in the Pacific Northwest). Summers with sunny days in excess of 105F were enough to do it for me. This is really only a problem for small trim clips and press-fit items though. I doubt you would see such effects as soon on larger parts. A Tg of 80C is reasonable, although apparently not perfectly sufficient for all geometries.
I've now ditched PETG for anything automotive related and stick to ASA, PC, TPU, and CF-Nylon. I realize those are more difficult to print for many people but the better properties are very much worth it in my opinion. Also acetone welding with ABS/ASA is a lifesaver for anything you may need to print larger than your build volume. The only thing I miss about PETG is the absurdly good layer adhesion, although PC competes pretty well on that metric.
I really need an armrest in between drivers and passengers seats
lay the part in a flatbed scanner to get the geometry of its faces
super big industry are the infotainment 3d prints molds
Door handle clips…
I found a guy selling a redesigned like what they use for mechanical airplane controls that was better then ball socket joint for my 98 manual Saturn Sudan. The ball from shifter cables broke to the stick broke. He sold it as 30 dollar fix with another 10 dollar fix for the socket that I ended buying almost 10 years later because that broke but could around it with zip tys temporarily. The replacement from GM was to replace the shifter cables part was over 200 dollars without installation.
i 3D printed a dust headlight cover because volkswagen wanted 13 pounds for it LMFAO
I do a bunch of Nerf stuff we make a bunch of mechanical parts takes a big beating everything that has been printed in 25% five walls has broke, 40% is minimum for solidness
Also don't forget to use five walls stop using two walls it breaks too often, another tip for 100% there's two ways you can go about doing this, one is with the infill placing it to 100% which is basic, the next is changing perimeters to 55 or 99 walls and that will make it completely solid
Btw
As a musician
Nice Sovtek amp
If you don’t mind me asking how much did you spend on yours?
ASA is a better filament for use in cars. I'd like to see you test it against PETG
Great video :)!! Use a service like P-R-O-M-O-S-M!!
Nylon is probably a better choice for a hot car, all else being equal, but I agree and would use PETG myself. Primarily because it's pretty much all I print with these days so I have an assortment to choose from, I've gotten things dialed in pretty well, and I can deal with the occasional stringing and blobs PETG tends to exhibit since all my prints are functional.
Scratch that, I have a specific car use that just came to mind (snapped piece inside the door handle mechanism) and I'll break out the Nylon X carbon-fiber reinforced filament. Probably impractical for many folks as it's expensive and requires a hardened nozzle to print, not to mention a rough finish. But totally ideal for this sort of thing.
Love your videos!!! plz keep up the great work👍👍👍
What about a custom (preferably vent-mounted) phone holder? Every vent-mount holder I've tried has been junk, because the weight of the phone, combined with the top-heavy placement of the phone while in the mount ends up creating a levering affect that causes the entire holder to pull itself out of the vent via gravity. I recall seeing one model that somehow locked itself in place by gripping the vent from both front and back, but I can't remember how it did it nor do I recall if it was still available for purchase. Regardless, a custom phone mount would be a great 3d printer project.
You could list the original part for sale for a fortune.
3D scanning is also an option to help with the process.
I would make a new set of hinges for my glovebox. I don’t know if Audi still has this problem, but my 2010 A3 hinges are weak. It is common across many models of that era.
great project! 👏😎
Rather than trying to get those tricky inside measurements and drafts with a ruler and callipers, one trick is to use graph paper 🙂
Cut it down to fit, in sections, and the scan it and use the picture to model from or take your measurements from the paper 👍