Sejak saya menguji Creality CR-30 Print Mill, saya menginginkan printer 3D yang dapat mengeluarkan bagian yang sudah jadi dan melanjutkan melalui antrian cetak secara mandiri. Dalam video ini, saya membawa Anda melalui bagaimana saya mengonversi printer FLsun Super Racer delta 3D saya untuk melakukan hal itu. Semuanya gratis dan open source. Video terpisah disediakan untuk membahas perakitan langkah demi langkah. Masih ada beberapa pekerjaan yang harus dilakukan untuk membuatnya sangat mudah tetapi sebagai bukti konsep saya sangat senang. Terima kasih kepada Adam dari Powerbelt3D karena menawarkan tip dan saran dalam proses desain saya. Terima kasih kepada pelanggan saya karena membantu dengan daftar printer yang mampu mengeluarkan bagian. Halaman yang dapat dicetak untuk proyek ini: 0:00 Pendahuluan 0:40 Inspirasi dan desain yang ada Video yang diinginkan komunitas: Video CR-30 saya: Mesin sabuk 45 derajat * Creality CR-30: * Blackbelt 3D: * White Knight: * SainSmart INFI -20: * iFactory One / One Pro: * Powerbelt3D Zero (perusahaan tempat saya mendapatkan sabuk): * Enderloop (konversi sabuk Ender 3): * Kit printer sabuk 3D (konversi Ender 3 dan X1): Mesin sabuk tidak bersudut * Penggantian sabuk sumbu y Pabrik Robot: * Infinity3D (dapat melakukan 45 dan 90 derajat): * PrintShift untuk Prusa Mini: Push off ejection: * Autodrop3D: * Video Make Anything: * Quinly: Sistem pertukaran tempat tidur * Video Tom Sanladerer: 3:20 Tujuan desain saya 4:08 Bagaimana saya mendesain skrip fitur OnShape Beams ini: 5:40 Diperlukan perangkat keras dan sabuk kustom BOM Powerbelt3D: 8:25 Langkah perakitan Video perakitan: 8:42 Firmware/software Video sebelumnya tentang mengonversi printer ini ke Klipper: Klipper manual referensi stepper: Konfigurasi Klipper saya untuk mesin ini: Plugin Octoprint cetak berkelanjutan: 10:36 B pemasangan dan pengencangan elt 11:47 Cetakan pertama Kubus kalibrasi: Pola ‘Geometri 2’: Darurat & Olahraga Peluit: 13:07 Evaluasi Beli filamen berkualitas dan terjangkau dari X3D. Beli 3, dapatkan 1 gratis, dan paket sampel gratis untuk setiap pesanan: www.x3d.com.au Dapatkan Resin Berkualitas dari Printer 3D Online. Diskon 5% di seluruh toko untuk pelanggan Teaching Tech [Code: tech5]
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Thanks for all of the feedback and great ideas. I still intend to keep it fairly simple for my printer but perhaps someone will remix the design to take it some place else?
I already wanted a delta, now I want it even more. awesome project man
I would love to see this on the voron 2.4 with its flying gantry and stationary bed. There's even an extra pin available on the octopus mainboard for another stepper.
Man, you people with your talents, skills and know-how make me sick! 🙂
You could add 4 small adjustable rollers on top of each corner of the bed to add extra pressure on the belt in order to keep it squeezed against the bed underneath 👍 quite simple and worth a try in my opinion!
Fucking legend bud
likely way too much programming pain but maybe for the purge an option would be you could have it run a certain distance, the width of your build volume, then start printing again. it looks like this would put the printed part in a good area to cool down while the new part prints. making it so you may not need active cooling.
another option that may be neat is since you are using steppers for the belt you could adjust the purge such that it completes a half lap (find the distance by trying to have it do multiple laps, count the steps it said it did, then divide out to get a good number. I think). by doing a half lap, and getting a large number and dividing, you should be able to pretty much guarantee that you will never land on the seam. the second option may make it easier since it keeps from printing on the seam, whereas the first idea there is a good chance of printing on the seam
Really impressive work Michael, you provide so much to this community, thank you.
This is our ejection system for wemake 3D printers which will come very soon for ender 3. I hoped to this is in your video but never the less , great content.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqqcHpglL94
late to the party here but will love to build this after my wedding.
Michael as your not far from me (we have had some emails between us) are the parts easy to get around us and do you have a rough price please?
when ejecting the print, before it starts again with the next on the cue, you could make it turn 360 from where it printed the previous piece.
This way you can control the outcome, as your always print in the same place, specially avoiding the tape you mentioned
14:17 Question 1: Why turn off bed heating at all? Sure, the belt would have to be longer to add a cooling section, but on the upside without cooling down and heating up the bed the speed would be higher.
Question 2: How about running a (custom) waterblock just before the end roller. (Should be insulated towards the heated bed) Using chilled water probably would release the part even better.
Question 3: Why have the idler (that is clearly there to tension the belt) in a fixed* position? Wouldn't it be better to have it on a string tensioned arm? The springs then would determinate the tension of the belt, but would have a give as the belt expands / contracts.
Idea: you could stick a piece of copper tape on the seam to determinate where it is. And then use that information to never have it on the print area.
*= Haven't seen the build video, so please forgive if that "question" is answered there or the suggestion is already implemented.
I would suggest a BRUSHED surface at the end as well as the exisisting ramps to pick up finer parts without introducing drag to the belt, kind of like the edges of an escalator! Also some big blowers that turn on during ejection would look so cool, kind of like a car wash at the end. LOVE the execution and idea!! Can't wait to see more of this.
Good work, now lets talk about TPU… xD
This is incredible
Moonraker + Mainsail can also do print queues.
Could you program the stepper controlled by your eject macro to just roll forward like 50-75% of the belt length and then backward by the same amount to restart in the same place so that you never print on the joining tape?
Michael, that was brilliant. A MK3S version would be phenomenal 😉 Cheers, JAYTEE
Great work! Now if only you had a good filament splicer joiner module to avoid having to stop for a filament reel change. In my OS projects I try to avoid use of power tools / CNC-milling custom metal parts because this puts the project out of practical scope for many people but of course there is nothing wrong with it for the more advanced / well equipped DIYer.
Pretty smart! Nice design, thanks for sharing!